I started building the frame for my modified Kara tonight. I took the rear piece from the Robber design to widen the rear and make it easier to square off for a trolling motor transom.
I've used 1x2x8's for gunnels (1.05 per), 1x6x6 dog ear treated fencing for the deck ribs (.99 per) and glued up some plywood to make the front and rear pieces. So far a whopping $20 in it. I figure final cost will be at or under $200 including the pvc for the blind frame and misc rigging items.

I'm using 1/8" hardboard for the bottom sheathing at $6.99 per sheet and scrap 1/4" plywood I have around for the top decking. It will all be wrapped in 18 oz fiberglass and polyester resin. The hardboard is thin, bends very easy and is strong enough once its glassed. But I want plywood on the rear deck where I will be standing from time to time for extra stregth.

She's 13 1/2' long and 44" wide.

I've modified the rear end to raise the deck and square it off some more for a more stable platform. Hopefully the support will be sufficient fer my fat butt,,,hehehehehe

Lying in wait said, "You might consider using 1/8" luane plywood, it is made from phillipein mahogany and laminated with waterproof glue. It only costs between $7 and $9 per sheet and is lighter in weight than hardboard."  jorjenzak said, "If I could have found it I would have used it instead of the hardboard.....probably would have ended up using less resin as that hardboard sucked it up.  Of course.....that means the hardboard is impregnated with the stuff....heavy but also should add strength...like REALLY heavy glass cloth!"  Cockpit is 7 1/2' for some extra room. I have 9" clearance under the front and back of the cockpit for storage access.

First coat of paint to seal the wood of the frame.

Now to find some resin and cloth. Will be tacking on the 1/8" hardboard on the bottom and front deck next. Using 1/4" plywood for the back deck for extra strength and support. Whew....I'm tired....

Oh yeah....total weight before paint was 49 lbs.

July 27 here is the bottom sheathed trimmed and joints/holes patched with putty     notched the tail for the shaft of the trolling motor

pre-wetted the bottom with straight poly resin (no hardener) then test fit the 18oz cloth

And the first wet out......

Layed in another layer of 18 oz cloth on the nose and tail of the bottom for ice bustin' and beachin' strength. Got the second coat of resin on. Boy....that 18 oz cloth is thirsty! Gallon and a half so far just on the bottom. Whew....brew time.....

July 30 Bottom is almost done. Here are the runners glassed in...next will trim the excess glass, sand and put on the final resin coat. Then on to the top side!

I'm a bit disappointed in the weight.  Before the bottom was installed on the frame the frame was only 49lbs.  Now it tipped the scales at 110....and the top deck is not yet installed and glassed.  It should not be quite as heavy as the bottom as I'm only using one layer of 6 oz cloth and probably 2 coats of resin vs. 18 oz on the bottom, doubled at the nose and tail and 3+ coats of resin....but its the bottom that has to be tough.

Top decking mostly done...

a little foam in the nose and stern....

July 31   Nearing completion
Got the top completely sheathed and patched....

Glass cut and ready for resin wet out...

Wet out on the top now....

Close view of width and modified stern profile...

Rear storage view and foam in stern....room for 3-4 standard dekes...or a battery. You can see the notches I cut in the ribs so water can drain front to back for sponging out.   And storage in the bow...

Next final resin coat (gotta buy some more....dang!) and paint and she's done....except for the sliding topper and blind frame.
oh yeah...totalled reciepts today....$204 and some change.

August 01

She's basically done....final paint coat on and all that is left is to spray on some grass templates in tan camo and build and install the blind frame out of 3/4" pvc. You can see that instead of the traditional topper I put on 1X1X8 treated rails with grooves in which slide two sheets of plywood.

They are locked down for transport using the hinges with hitch pins. When you are hunting you take one out or slide them forward for a snug cockpit and use the one closest to you for a platform for gun, shells, coffee, snacks and to cover up some from rain and wind. Can be made nice and snug or open 'er up for more room and air!

I figure total final cost with the pvc will be under $250....I hope. Another $125 for the trailer and I'm set! I want to extend a special heart felt thanks to Rob Leonard for his great  kara design and plans design and plans. Also to his inspiration...Mr. Humberg. And finally to Mark Schupp who developed the Robber from which I borrowed the stern design to incorporate into my modification of Rob's great basic design. I've seen this Kara design being built (per web posts) all over north america.....you can bet it will one day rank up there with the Barnegat Bay Sneak Boat if its not in that class already! Without those guys this fun project would have never taken shape. Thanks!!!!

 

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